I visited Petra in June last year, 2007. It was my
first trip to a Middle Eastern country as a tourist and I was en-route to Israel.
The tour leader thought it might be a good experience to visit Petra in Jordan
and so we made the plan to do that while we were still in Singapore.
Besides wanting to see Petra, there were two other reasons that we did not fly to
Israel directly from Singapore.
The first reason is money. We could save a few hundred dollars in American
currency if we flew to Jordan
from Singapore and then
travelled by land to Israel.
The other reason is time. We have time to visit Jordan
in this trip and we thought that it would be exciting to see Petra.
Petra is a city of sandstone rock
and granite and sand everywhere. The original inhabitants of Petra
made their home in Jordan
about 2000 years ago.
Jordan is a hot and dry
country, nearly a desert! The day temperature hovers around forty-five degrees
Celsius while the night temperature rarely drops below ten. It rarely rains in Jordan except
in November and December each year and that is about all the natural water
supply they get. The land is hot and usually the first wave of rain water
evaporates into the sky as soon as it touches the ground. But after when ground
is cooled and soaked, the rain water seeps into the soil and collects
underneath the land, very much like the Artesian wells of Australia.
The Jordanians dig deep wells
to reach this water source. Water is more important to them for survival than I
can imagine because I have never experienced a water shortage in my life. Water
is especially important in the Middle East
because of the arid climate. A missed rainfall literally means life or death
for the people of the land. It is no wonder that their kings in the past often
conquered and overcame their enemies who retreated behind walled cities by
capturing or poisoning the water supply. A city deprived of drinking water was
a fallen city.
Jordan major cities are
thriving today thanks to the engineering feats of recent years that have
enabled Jordanian engineers to build huge underground reservoirs to hold water
and supply the country's water needs. Even though I think the country does not
have enough water for everybody beyond their basic needs for drinking and
cleanliness, Jordan
is still able to prosper and support her people with the little rainfall that
they get yearly.
Beyond the needs of survival,
water is also needed for agriculture and farming. I think Jordanians live in a
constant state of semi-thirst. While I do not see Jordanian deprived of
drinking water for days, I observed that use water carefully. Water is not used
frivolous in their buildings for swimming pools or water faucets in shopping
malls. It is too precious to waste it in luxury. The public toilets have modern
pull-and-flush system, but the system often dispensed water grudgingly every
time I made use of it. That made me think that at home our pull-and-flush
system looks and feels like a fountain each time I use it.
While travelling across the
land to Israel
I saw small hills of phosphate, yellow and pungent. Our Jordanian guide, Omar,
said that this chemical was a major export of their country. They mined it from
the sand around. The phosphate miners of Jordan do not have to dig deep to
reach the phosphate as much of it deposited on the surface soil. They just need
to 'wash' the phosphate out of the sand. But herein lays the problem because
washing needs water. To conserver water, the washing process makes use of
discarded, recycled water collected from towns and cities. Not all dirty water
is recyclable but much that is not too sallied will return into usage as second
hand water. It is this second-hand water that is used to wash the phosphate
from the sand.
Phosphate miners farm the
phosphate through evaporation. A phosphate farm is a simple mining setup. These
farms are usually located on the outskirt of towns with a sufficient supply of
second hand water. The farms consist mainly of ponds where the recycled water
is mixed with fresh sand. The sand in the mixture sinks to the bottom while the
phosphate dissolves in the water. Each pond is usually circular shape and about
four meters across the diameter. The water that covers the pond is usually
blackish. I did not have the chance to measure the depth of a pond.
When a pond is filled up with
water, workers will dump sand in. I didn't investigate what proportion of water
and sand goes into the mix. When enough sand and water have been mixed, the
pond of mixture is left exposed in the sun for days to evaporate the water to
let it thickens into mud with phosphate deposit. The mud is allowed to dry
further until its texture hardens to the point when the miners are able to cut
it into bricks for transporting to the factories for purifying the phosphate.
In the factories the phosphate is separated and purified of impurities. The
phosphate is then dumped aside, forming little phosphate hill along road sides
along factories that lie around the country. The miners are not concern about
rain as the weather is dry enough throughout many months each year. The whole
process does not need a lot of electrical power except during purification.
The Jordanians are clever
people. They harvest the sand and sun abundantly available in their country to
create a phosphate industry in the world to supply to countries for fertilizer
production. This mode of mineral extraction by evaporation is an ancient
method, but it is still interesting to see the process for myself.